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Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Remember the fun yet stylish trousers that my son wore to our friends’ wedding? Today I’m going to show you how to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers or jeans pattern. Let’s dive right in!

Preparing the pattern pieces for the front slanted pockets

At first we’re going to change the front patch pockets to slanted pockets. To do so, you need your patch pocket pattern piece (if your pattern doesn’t have one, just get the free Small Fry Skinny Jeans Pattern and grade the pocket piece to your size) and the front leg piece.

Tutorial: How to add front slash and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern

Trace your patch pocket piece onto some paper, dashing the inner curved line. Then connect the two end points of your dashed curved line with a solid straight line. This is what your new pattern piece for the pocket facing should look like.

Tutorial: How to add front slash and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern

Next lay your patch pocket piece at it’s place on the front leg piece matching the outer curved line with the notches on the front leg piece. Mark new notches on the front leg piece where the inner curved line of the pocket piece ends.

Tutorial: How to add front slash and back welt pockets to any trousers patternTrace the top corner of your front leg piece to some underlying paper, too (from notch to notch).

Tutorial: How to add front slash and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern

You should have this now! Lay your pocket piece onto the traced part of your front leg piece, again matching the outer curved line with the notches and trace around outer curved line. This is your pocket back piece.

Tutorial: How to add front slash and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern

As a last step fold the upper right corner of your front leg piece to the back with the fold connecting your two newly marked notches.

Now you are ready to cut your pieces. You will need:

2 front legs (main fabric; mirrored), 2 pocket facing (lining; mirrored), 2 pocket back (main fabric; mirrored)

How to sew the front slanted pockets

I’ve not prepared a tutorial for making piping. If you need help with this, check out this fabulous tutorial by the Cottage Mama (or just buy some piping).

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Lay your piping along the pocket line of the right side of the front leg, making sure to match raw edges. We’re going to sew between the stitching line of the piping and cording, so you have to place it so that your new stitching will be along the seam allowance. You might have to cut some fabric away from your piping if it is wider than the seam allowance or to move the piping a little bit away from the raw edge of the front leg if it is to narrow. Sew (I like to use a zipper foot. Just move your needle to the side as close to the piping as possible)!

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Here you can see the new stitching, which is (mostly) to the right of the original stitching. If you happen to be to the left of the original stitching at some places, just sew these parts again. Otherwise the original stitching will be visible from the right side!

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Now lay your pocket facing down on your leg piece right sides together, sandwiching the piping in between. Pin and turn around so that now the leg piece is on top.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

On this side you can see the stitching from when we sewed the piping on. Sew along this line. Make sure to sew again between the old stitching and the piping. Finish the raw edge with a zig zag stitch or a serger. Turn the pocket facing to the left side of the leg piece (not pictured) and iron.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Lay your pocket back on the pocket facing matching the curved part, right sides together. Pin the pocket back and facing together. Don’t pin the leg piece to them! Sew along the curved edge and finish the edge.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection) Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

This is what it looks like from the back and front.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Baste the top and side part of the pocket to the leg.

Repeat for the second leg.

How to prepare and sew the back welt pockets

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Cut the original back pocket position from the back leg pattern piece. Lay the back leg pattern piece on the back leg fabric and mark the top corners of the back pocket.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Mark a line 1“ above the original pocket top and extending 1/2“ to both sides of the original pocket. This gives you the width of your back pocket piece. You can use the length and shape of your original pocket piece. Cut 4 back pockets from your lining fabric. Interface two of your back pockets with some light weight interfacing. I didn’t do so, but will surely do the next time.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Place one of the interfaced pocket piece on the back leg piece (right side UP!!!) and mark the position of the top of the original pocket piece. Add a second line of the same length 1cm lower and connect the ends of the lines to get a rectangle.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Sew along the rectangle. (Finished picture from other leg!)

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Cut along the middle of the rectangle with two Ys at the ends towards the corners of the rectangle. You have to cut really close to the corners, but not into the stitching!

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Turn the lining fabric to the wrong side of the leg piece through the hole (i.e. the welt) that you just cut. Press nicely, making sure that there are no bumps at the corners. Then fold the top part of you lining fabric down to the middle of the welt and the lower part up to the middle. Press nicely again.

   Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Turn your leg right side up. Sew around the welt to stitch the lining into place.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

That’s what your pocket will look like now from front and back.

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Lay now your second back pocket piece (the one without interfacing) on top of the sewn one. You will have to cut some parts of it off at the top (due to the folds in the first piece). Stitch the two pocket pieces together, making sure to not sew them to the trousers!

Tutorial: How to add front slanted and back welt pockets to any trousers pattern (Näh-Connection)

Finish your seam and you’re done! You’ve just inserted a welt pocket! Yay. Now do the same for the second leg and then construct the rest of your jeans as given in the instructions.

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